If you want to improve the speed of your computer to be faster. However, above all, do no harm and beyond the scope of this Windows forum, ask for help from those you know if you get in over your head. You can stop most processes I discuss without causing harm. Caution and common sense go a long way when working with computers, problems are often much easier to fix than they appear.
Showing posts with label Information. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Information. Show all posts
Tuesday, December 28, 2010
Tips And Tricks To Speed Up Computer To be Faster
Friday, December 17, 2010
How to make Windows 7 is Genuine
Just for share :) In the past I did try a version of Windows Seven Ultimate Release to Market (RTM), but can only be used a few months. Because too want to use Windows solution to this end I was granted my wish. And after surfing the blogs and forums to visit in the end I have crack to make Windows Seven into Genuine (Full Version).
For the crack can be taken here
For the steps:
* After installation windows seven is complete, run the crack that we downloaded earlier
* After a crack running restart your computer / laptopAnd the result of Windows you have changed from who is actually pirated and has now become a Genuine (original).
* After installation windows seven is complete, run the crack that we downloaded earlier
* After a crack running restart your computer / laptopAnd the result of Windows you have changed from who is actually pirated and has now become a Genuine (original).
Tuesday, December 14, 2010
Corsair Graphite Series 600T: Cool and Quiet
Introducing the Corsair Graphite Series 600T
Today we open with what is hopefully the first in a fresh series of case reviews, and we kick it off with a bang with Corsair's Graphite Series 600T. The 600T is the least expensive in Corsair's lineup, but that doesn't say much when the MSRP is still $159. That pricing puts it right in line with crowd favorites like Antec's P182 and many of Lian Li's enclosures: no small competition. That said, a good case is the kind of investment that can last you a long time.
I've had my system installed in an Antec P182 for a long time, and there's a reason that case (and its successor, the P183) has garnered so many favorable reviews: it has a smart internal design and cools extremely well while being very quiet. That said, the P180, P182 and P183 aren't the easiest cases to work in, and when Corsair announced the 600T I was eager to see if it could bring all the benefits Antec's cases brought to the table while adding more conveniences. Cases have matured in the intervening period, and I can tell you right now, Corsair's 600T is a remarkable bit of progress. Here's the rundown of the case specs.
Today we open with what is hopefully the first in a fresh series of case reviews, and we kick it off with a bang with Corsair's Graphite Series 600T. The 600T is the least expensive in Corsair's lineup, but that doesn't say much when the MSRP is still $159. That pricing puts it right in line with crowd favorites like Antec's P182 and many of Lian Li's enclosures: no small competition. That said, a good case is the kind of investment that can last you a long time.

Corsair Graphite Series 600T Specifications | ||
Motherboard Form Factor | ATX, Micro ATX | |
Drive Bays | External | 4x 5.25” |
Internal | 6x 3.5” | |
Cooling | Front | 1x 200mm intake |
Rear | 1x 120mm exhaust | |
Top | 1x 200mm exhaust | |
Side | - | |
Bottom | - | |
Expansion Slots | 8 | |
Front I/O Port | 4x USB 2.0, 1x Headphone, 1x Mic, 1x 6-pin Firewire, 1x USB 3.0, Fan Controller | |
Power Supply Size | Standard ATX | |
Weight | 28 lbs. | |
Dimensions | 23.3” x 10.4” x 20” |
Microsoft Kinect
Introduction
For better or worse, new user interface is all the rage right now in the console gaming scene. Nintendo was first to the block in 2006 with 3D motion-controlled user interfaces, leveraging a unique combination of IR sensors and 6-axis MEMS accelerometers in a handheld remote. The motion-controlled Wii has enjoyed a nice long run being the sole platform for motion-assisted gaming. Flash forward to late 2010, and Microsoft and Sony both have readied their response to the Wii - the Microsoft Kinect and Sony Move, respectively.
It’s taken the greater part of four years (and one name change) for the software giant’s answer to make it to market, but Kinect is finally out and ready for mass consumption. We’ve spent nearly a month playing with Kinect and are finally ready to release our impressions.
First off, the Kinect is fundamentally different from Sony and Nintendo’s offerings. Instead of relying on handheld controllers and motion targets, the Kinect uses a purely optical solution which we’ll get to in a bit. The result is that there’s only one thing to purchase to add Kinect to an existing Xbox 360 install - the $149.99 Kinect sensor itself. We purchased a retail kit on launch date, which comes with the sensor itself, cables, some paperwork, and Kinect Adventures.
Hardware
Packaging for the standalone Kinect package matches the style of the Xbox 360 S packaging - it’s a lot of green and purple. On the box, Microsoft stipulates that you need at least 6’ of free space in front of the sensor to play, which seems a bit optimistic as I’ll show later. There’s an unboxing gallery below in case you want to see for yourself. The Kinect is securely seated in a foam recessed area.
With the Kinect connected using the power supply, I measured a total power draw of 5 watts, which is pretty respectable. The Prime Sense specification says 2.25 watts, but that’s probably before losses are incurred from the power supply and additional overhead from thermal management.
I used to be attached to my older Xbox 360 purely for aesthetic reasons - it looked cool with a different case, and managed to not sound like a hair dryer after a fan replacement, but my venerable launch console stopped working with the latest dashboard update that brought UI changes and Kinect support (seriously). My original intentions were to try Kinect out on the old Xbox 360 Pro and also the new Xbox 360 S, but the old console alternates between dead and alive for half hour periods so much that it isn’t worth the frustration. One warranty-repair RROD and two x-clamp RROD repairs later, the thing was on its last legs anyway. I did want to illustrate how seriously out of control the cable situation can be - ironically for a new user interface that’s entirely wireless and relies on no controllers at all. Above you can see the cable extend the wireless adapter all the way to the front. Toss in the Y connector, and there can be a heck of a lot of cables running around.
Again, it’s obvious that the least painful way to use Kinect is with the new Xbox 360 S console, thanks in no small part to its higher-power custom USB port. Microsoft will also sell you an Xbox 360 S 4 GB bundled with the Kinect sensor and an extra game for $349.98.
For better or worse, new user interface is all the rage right now in the console gaming scene. Nintendo was first to the block in 2006 with 3D motion-controlled user interfaces, leveraging a unique combination of IR sensors and 6-axis MEMS accelerometers in a handheld remote. The motion-controlled Wii has enjoyed a nice long run being the sole platform for motion-assisted gaming. Flash forward to late 2010, and Microsoft and Sony both have readied their response to the Wii - the Microsoft Kinect and Sony Move, respectively.
It’s taken the greater part of four years (and one name change) for the software giant’s answer to make it to market, but Kinect is finally out and ready for mass consumption. We’ve spent nearly a month playing with Kinect and are finally ready to release our impressions.
First off, the Kinect is fundamentally different from Sony and Nintendo’s offerings. Instead of relying on handheld controllers and motion targets, the Kinect uses a purely optical solution which we’ll get to in a bit. The result is that there’s only one thing to purchase to add Kinect to an existing Xbox 360 install - the $149.99 Kinect sensor itself. We purchased a retail kit on launch date, which comes with the sensor itself, cables, some paperwork, and Kinect Adventures.
Hardware
Packaging for the standalone Kinect package matches the style of the Xbox 360 S packaging - it’s a lot of green and purple. On the box, Microsoft stipulates that you need at least 6’ of free space in front of the sensor to play, which seems a bit optimistic as I’ll show later. There’s an unboxing gallery below in case you want to see for yourself. The Kinect is securely seated in a foam recessed area.
Gallery: Kinect Unboxing Gallery
Inside the box is the Kinect sensor itself, Kinect Adventures, and a suite of cables. First up is an orange-tipped USB-like cable with a special connector for connecting the Kinect to the Xbox 360 S. This cable is keyed differently than a normal USB cable and allows the Kinect to draw power from the console itself instead of requiring a standalone power supply.
If you’ve got an Xbox 360 S, this is the only cable you need to use Kinect. The cable physically looks like USB, but the connector inside is visibly different besides the obvious shape difference.
The rest of the cables are for if you’re connecting the Kinect to an older generation Xbox 360. For that, you get a power supply cable which breaks off into a Y connector - one end is orange tipped and connects to the cable coming out of the Kinect, the other goes into your original-gen Xbox 360. But wait, what about that odd-looking grey cable?
It’s a WiFi extension cable. Remember that unlike the Xbox 360 S, the older Xbox 360 has just one USB port on the rear, and two in the front. I have an original Xbox 360 Pro from launch date, and also happen to use the Xbox dual band 802.11N adapter to connect wirelessly. If you’re using a setup like this, you’re going to need to run a cable from the wireless card - using the extension cable- all the way around to the front of the box and into one of the front USB ports. It’s an unaesthetic solution that’s an unfortunate consequence of the old Xbox 360 simply not being designed for all these accessories. It’s a bit disappointing there isn’t a hub involved somewhere here like what Microsoft did with the ill-fated HD DVD player (which included a notch and USB port on the back for the displaced wireless adapter), but perhaps bandwidth considerations over the USB hub contributed. If you’ve still got a Microsoft HD DVD player kicking around and connected, things could theoretically be getting very crowded with daisy chained USB devices. With an old Xbox 360 and Kinect hooked up, you eat up two power ports, and with a wireless adapter, are left with only one available USB port on the front for connecting controllers and USB storage. If you’re like me and have your profile stored on a USB drive (so you can migrate from box to box, ostensibly) you end up using all those ports.With the Kinect connected using the power supply, I measured a total power draw of 5 watts, which is pretty respectable. The Prime Sense specification says 2.25 watts, but that’s probably before losses are incurred from the power supply and additional overhead from thermal management.
I used to be attached to my older Xbox 360 purely for aesthetic reasons - it looked cool with a different case, and managed to not sound like a hair dryer after a fan replacement, but my venerable launch console stopped working with the latest dashboard update that brought UI changes and Kinect support (seriously). My original intentions were to try Kinect out on the old Xbox 360 Pro and also the new Xbox 360 S, but the old console alternates between dead and alive for half hour periods so much that it isn’t worth the frustration. One warranty-repair RROD and two x-clamp RROD repairs later, the thing was on its last legs anyway. I did want to illustrate how seriously out of control the cable situation can be - ironically for a new user interface that’s entirely wireless and relies on no controllers at all. Above you can see the cable extend the wireless adapter all the way to the front. Toss in the Y connector, and there can be a heck of a lot of cables running around.
Again, it’s obvious that the least painful way to use Kinect is with the new Xbox 360 S console, thanks in no small part to its higher-power custom USB port. Microsoft will also sell you an Xbox 360 S 4 GB bundled with the Kinect sensor and an extra game for $349.98.
Saturday, December 4, 2010
Holiday Smartphone Buyer's Guide
Since there are so many smartphones on the market, we figured that the holiday season was a great time to write our first smartphone buyer's guide. And so we continue our 2010 Holiday Buyer's Guides with the handset sector. This year was the first year that we got some real, honest competition in the smartphone sector. Google's 2.0 version of Android released late last year to great success, and versions 2.1 and 2.2 only continued that trend. Apple, always good for some drama, kept it up this year with the iPhone 4 and the ensuing Antennagate scandal. Microsoft finally made a serious play for the handheld sector with the brand new, Zune-based Windows Phone 7. Palm got bought out by HP, BlackBerry finally got a WebKit browser in BB6, and Nokia continues pair increasingly awesome hardware with Symbian on everything not called the N900. Safe to say, we had a pretty busy year in the smartphone segment.
We've split our guide into 6 segments - one for each carrier, then one for unlocked and international devices. We put in a page for tablets, since that's still an expanding market closely related to smartphones. Over the next few months, we'll see rapid growth in tablets and slate computing devices, but for now, it's not big enough to warrant more than a page. So, we'll kick it off with the carriers, starting with AT&T.
That said, it's hard to argue that the world's most polarizing device isn't still at the top of the carrier's list - the iPhone. There isn't much to say about the iPhone 4 that hasn't already been said in our review and its updates. If iOS's style and predominantly hands-off, just-works philosophy appeals to you, or you're looking to upgrade from an iPhone 2G, 3G, or 3GS, this is the obvious choice. When it comes to screen resolution and battery life - something its predecessors couldn't nail down - the iPhone 4 still remains unmatched. Even though the Cortex A8-derived Apple A4 SoC in the iPhone 4 isn't running at 1 GHz, - rather around 800 MHz - the phone still has a level of snappiness that I've yet to see equaled on any platform short of the Galaxy S phones. For the longest time, the iPhone was the reason to have AT&T in the first place, and though that still likely is true for a majority of users, there are enough other good devices on the 'ol death star that this isn't really the case anymore. The other advantage is that when you get tired of the iPhone 4, you can pop your SIM into a device from a number of different platforms.
First up, probably our top recommendation for a smartphone of the Android variety on AT&T is the carrier's Galaxy S variant, the AT&T Samsung Captivate. I've played with the Fascinate on AT&T and the Vibrant on T-Mobile, but still haven't been able to directly interact with a Captivate long enough to review it - we're still trying to get one. That said, the speed of the Galaxy S line alone and its potent combination of a 1 GHz Cortex A8-derived CPU and Imagination SGX 540 GPU in the Hummingbird SoC make it (last I've checked) the fastest hardware you can buy right now. No doubt the story will change early 2011 with Cortex A9 MPcore based SoCs like Tegra 2, OMAP4, and new platforms Qualcomm, but for right now the best you can get through legitimate means with cash in your hand is Galaxy S.
The Captivate differs from the other Galaxy S devices slightly. Unlike the Fascinate (and like the Vibrant and Epic) the Captivate lacks an LED flash, which is a bit of a downer. The hardware itself also feels very insubstantial, which is a good or bad thing depending on your point of view and preference. The only other downer is that the Captivate is still running Android 2.1, though it appears the rest of AT&T's direct offerings are also running 2.1. Things look better however when you consider that the Captivate is selling for $0.01 at Amazon Wireless on 2 year contract, or $199.99 from AT&T on contract. The other Android options on AT&T are the HTC Aria (2.1), Motorola Bravo (2.1), Backflip (2.1), Flipout (2.1), and Flipside (2.1), and the Xperia X10 (2.1). See a pattern? It's incredible that there are no devices being directly offered on AT&T that come with Android 2.2. For that, you'll have to find a Nexus One which is becoming increasingly scarce.
The other options on AT&T are similarly differentiated by your platform preference. RIM brought BlackBerry 6 to market with AT&T in the form of the BlackBerry Torch 9800, a device that I honestly found very usable. The browser is much improved, the platform manages to feel decently snappy despite still relying on a relatively unimpressive 624 MHz Marvell Tavor PXA930 SoC. Amazon Wireless is likewise offering the Torch for $0.01 on contract, or you can get it for $99 from AT&T directly.
The new player on the scene is Windows Phone 7. At least for this holiday season, there aren't any CDMA Windows Phone 7 devices, meaning choices are limited to T-Mobile and AT&T if you want to try Windows Phone. We've reviewed the HTC Surround which is available on AT&T, and Anand is still working on the Focus. Having played with both, I can understand why the Focus is reportedly outselling the Surround - it feels like the Galaxy S phones in thickness and weight, and packs an AMOLED display that certainly makes it pop when side by side with the Surround. There's also the LG Quantum if you want a hardware keyboard, even though Windows Phone 7 has an otherwise excellent virtual keyboard. The Surround beats the Focus in our battery life tests in all but 3G talk time, no doubt in part to the Focus' AMOLED display. We haven't tested the LG Quantum yet, but it packs a traditional TFT screen and will likely be in the neighborhood of the Surround battery life-wise. All three AT&T windows phones are on Amazon Wireless for $0.01 right now on contract, or $199.99 from AT&T on 2 year contract.
Last but not least is WebOS. Here the options are interesting. The Palm Pre Plus and Pixi Plus remain available for free from AT&T on contract, which is a great deal if you're a fan of the WebOS card workflow and multitasking style. The Palm Pre 2 is now out, however, which is available directly from HP-Palm for use on AT&T for $449.99, unlocked and without a plan. There's no option to get the Pre 2 directly from AT&T on subsidy - your only option is direct from HP.
AT&T definitely does have a lot of options, even if you (shockingly) can't get an Android 2.2 device direct from the carrier short of finding a Nexus One on eBay. At the end of the day, my recommendations boil down to either the iPhone 4, Samsung Captivate on Android (with the Xperia X10 a worthy second), or the Samsung Focus or HTC Surround for WP7.
We've split our guide into 6 segments - one for each carrier, then one for unlocked and international devices. We put in a page for tablets, since that's still an expanding market closely related to smartphones. Over the next few months, we'll see rapid growth in tablets and slate computing devices, but for now, it's not big enough to warrant more than a page. So, we'll kick it off with the carriers, starting with AT&T.
AT&T
Until recently, if you were on AT&T and wanted a smartphone, your choices were limited. In fact, basically the only choices were either a BlackBerry, iPhone, or Windows Mobile. In the span of a just a few months, however, AT&T has built out a surprisingly decent portfolio of Android, Windows Phone, and even WebOS devices, diversifying their smartphone lineup so they've got devices from every major platform in case one suddenly becomes dominant. Whatever the case, there are far more options these days than there used to be on AT&T.

The Captivate differs from the other Galaxy S devices slightly. Unlike the Fascinate (and like the Vibrant and Epic) the Captivate lacks an LED flash, which is a bit of a downer. The hardware itself also feels very insubstantial, which is a good or bad thing depending on your point of view and preference. The only other downer is that the Captivate is still running Android 2.1, though it appears the rest of AT&T's direct offerings are also running 2.1. Things look better however when you consider that the Captivate is selling for $0.01 at Amazon Wireless on 2 year contract, or $199.99 from AT&T on contract. The other Android options on AT&T are the HTC Aria (2.1), Motorola Bravo (2.1), Backflip (2.1), Flipout (2.1), and Flipside (2.1), and the Xperia X10 (2.1). See a pattern? It's incredible that there are no devices being directly offered on AT&T that come with Android 2.2. For that, you'll have to find a Nexus One which is becoming increasingly scarce.
The other options on AT&T are similarly differentiated by your platform preference. RIM brought BlackBerry 6 to market with AT&T in the form of the BlackBerry Torch 9800, a device that I honestly found very usable. The browser is much improved, the platform manages to feel decently snappy despite still relying on a relatively unimpressive 624 MHz Marvell Tavor PXA930 SoC. Amazon Wireless is likewise offering the Torch for $0.01 on contract, or you can get it for $99 from AT&T directly.

Last but not least is WebOS. Here the options are interesting. The Palm Pre Plus and Pixi Plus remain available for free from AT&T on contract, which is a great deal if you're a fan of the WebOS card workflow and multitasking style. The Palm Pre 2 is now out, however, which is available directly from HP-Palm for use on AT&T for $449.99, unlocked and without a plan. There's no option to get the Pre 2 directly from AT&T on subsidy - your only option is direct from HP.
AT&T definitely does have a lot of options, even if you (shockingly) can't get an Android 2.2 device direct from the carrier short of finding a Nexus One on eBay. At the end of the day, my recommendations boil down to either the iPhone 4, Samsung Captivate on Android (with the Xperia X10 a worthy second), or the Samsung Focus or HTC Surround for WP7.
Acer AG7750 Predator Reviews
Acer has announced the launch of the Predator AG7750 and AG5900 desktop gaming computer to the American market.
The core of the first model (pictured) is a liquid-cooled 2.8GHz Core i7-930 processors.
Inside you will also be able to find 12GB of DDR3 memory, NVIDIA GTX 470 graphics, and 3-way SLI-certified motherboards that can run up to 3 GPUs at the same time.
In addition, the desktop computer has 3 additional easy-swap HDD Cage that allows users to include up to 4 Serial ATA 3 G / bs high-capacity hard drives with storage capacities up to 2TB. So gamers can benefit from a total storage capacity of 8TB.
Machines have become popular in Canada and will soon be available in the United States at a price $ 1,999.
At the same time, Acer presents a less expensive model that features the Core i7-870 CPUs, 8GB memory, ATI Radeon HD 5850 graphics with 1GB dedicated memory and SATA hard drives with storage capacity of 1.5 terabytes. For that you'll spend $ 1350.
The core of the first model (pictured) is a liquid-cooled 2.8GHz Core i7-930 processors.
Inside you will also be able to find 12GB of DDR3 memory, NVIDIA GTX 470 graphics, and 3-way SLI-certified motherboards that can run up to 3 GPUs at the same time.
In addition, the desktop computer has 3 additional easy-swap HDD Cage that allows users to include up to 4 Serial ATA 3 G / bs high-capacity hard drives with storage capacities up to 2TB. So gamers can benefit from a total storage capacity of 8TB.
Machines have become popular in Canada and will soon be available in the United States at a price $ 1,999.
At the same time, Acer presents a less expensive model that features the Core i7-870 CPUs, 8GB memory, ATI Radeon HD 5850 graphics with 1GB dedicated memory and SATA hard drives with storage capacity of 1.5 terabytes. For that you'll spend $ 1350.
Wednesday, December 1, 2010
Will Windows 8 release in the 2012 ??
If the Mayan calendar is not proven and the apocalypse is not present in 2012, Microsoft will be poured newest operating system, Windows 8. Appropriately, three years after the appearance of Windows 7 years ago.
This issue developed after allegedly belonging to the Microsoft roadmap yanng successfully spread across the Internet.roadmap is illustrated in accordance with the rhythm of launch Microsoft products.
For example, to launch Windows Server 2003 and Windows Server 2003 R2, Microsot takes time for two years, from 2003 to 2005. Similarly, when launched Windows Server 2008 and Windows Server 2008 R2.
Therefore, Microsoft is considered not require a long time to be poured back new operating system codenamed Windows 8.
How to conserve laptop battery

Maybe if you understand the correct use and maintenance, usually at least high 2 hours.
But do not be surprised when buying a new laptop, the battery could last longer, but try to check again the use of your laptop battery when it was past 4 or 5 months of usage, the ability of battery life began to dwindle.
Because the small form, then the laptop becomes practical to carry it everywhere. Public places such as malls, restaurants or cafes, providing additional facilities Wi-FI for those who usually hang out with online. But remember, not all public places that provide free power outlet to charge your laptop battery. If the condition is so, then what is required is the ability of your laptop battery life is long enough. Maybe try these few tips that I share, that the ability of your laptop battery life can be maintained.
• Do not use the laptop while charging. Often we see them as something natural. Please note that the flow of electricity at the entrance and hold – going into the batteries while in use, it will impair the ability of the battery by itself. The most appropriate way is, do not use a laptop when you’re in charge. If necessary, turn off your laptop when you’re in charge.
• To use the above 2 hours, you should remove the battery in and direct use of electricity. This proved to be effective so that your laptop battery is not too much is used.
• If we travel out of town for several days without bringing a laptop, you should remove the battery in and stored in a safe place.
• One of the components of a laptop confiscated enough battery capacity is the use of the LCD screen. At turn on the laptop, a lot of energy in disposable batteries for your laptop screen. The solution is setting the level of brightness (bright) and sharpness (sharp), your laptop screen.Arrange for not too bright and sharp, so it can use to save your laptop battery.
• Pemakian features too many spend too much battery life laptop. Some brands laptops provide features that will be on by itself when we turn on our laptop, for example, a Wi-FI and bluetooth.Better use of existing features, in use manually, for example, had set such a shortcut.
• One of the trivial habits (bad) is a compact disc forgot to remove chips from CD-ROM/DVD-ROM, when finished watching a movie or copying data. Well, when we turn on the laptop with the disc fragments that are still left in it, round which is derived from the CD-ROM/DVD-ROM was wearing a large enough battery power.
Hopefully some of these tips can be useful for you. All the above tips simple enough, provided we want to have the determination and willingness to care for and love our laptop.
See You Guys Next Time :)
Tuesday, November 30, 2010
Increasing the Mouse Pointer Speed
Increasing the Mouse Pointer Speed on Windows
By default, the Windows mouse pointer speed set at the average speed. Although adequate, this can sometimes slow the time when we need to move the cursor to different areas of the screen. Increasing the pointer speed will make you more quickly clicking on the computer more efficiently without the need many hands.
The way to do this, click Start> Settings> Control Panel> Mouse. On the Pointer Options tab, in the Motion, move the slider 1 to 5 steps to the option “Fast”. Then check on the “Enhance pointer Precision” and click OK. Should, now you can move the mouse pointer without having to physically move the mouse a lot of you.
There is no certainty that the settings for this option. Because the use of your computer, the speed of movement of the mouse pointer will not necessarily match the settings used by other people. A clear, common mouse that are cheap or worn-out mouse that has already a limited level of responsiveness. If the mouse pointer speed is not much effect, it means it’s time to change the mouse.
By default, the Windows mouse pointer speed set at the average speed. Although adequate, this can sometimes slow the time when we need to move the cursor to different areas of the screen. Increasing the pointer speed will make you more quickly clicking on the computer more efficiently without the need many hands.
The way to do this, click Start> Settings> Control Panel> Mouse. On the Pointer Options tab, in the Motion, move the slider 1 to 5 steps to the option “Fast”. Then check on the “Enhance pointer Precision” and click OK. Should, now you can move the mouse pointer without having to physically move the mouse a lot of you.
There is no certainty that the settings for this option. Because the use of your computer, the speed of movement of the mouse pointer will not necessarily match the settings used by other people. A clear, common mouse that are cheap or worn-out mouse that has already a limited level of responsiveness. If the mouse pointer speed is not much effect, it means it’s time to change the mouse.
How to Upgrade your Laptop Hard Disk Drive
This are the steps to upgrade old and outdated hard disk drive on your notebook/laptop


- Investigate your hard disk drive type, size and connector.
- Get the hard disk drive replacement on store.
- Locate the hard disk drive bay on the back of your notebook.
- Open the drive bay cover by removing the screws.
- Access the hard disk drive
- Remove the old hard disk drive
- Dismount Old Drive From Drive Frame
- Install New Drive Into Drive Frame
- Insert Drive Into Laptop
- Shut The Drive Cover
- Install Windows, Or Secure Your Old Installation
- Start Windows Backup And Restore
- Select Backup Target Drive
- Confirm Settings
- The Backup Process
- Initiate Restore
- Select The Recovery Drive
- Initiate Windows Complete PC Restore
- Select Restore Set
- Define Restore Parameters
- Summary Before Restore
- Restore: Are You Really Sure?
- Restore Process
- Done
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